Harvard Common Press

Birmingham Eats

Posted by Adam

Tweet

I’ve often relished listening to the Lynard Skynard hit “Sweet Home Alabama.” Something about it always reminds me of the comforts of returning to a place you know, where good friends and great food are always assured. And while this past weekend presented me an opportunity to visit Birmingham, Alabama for the first time (and to check out Food Blog South 2012), it was indeed like returning to a place I had always known.

If it can be said that a person comes to know a city through the extent of the food explored, I can say with confidence: “Birmingham, I knew thee well.” And I liked what I found.

Far be it from the sleepy, small town I had expected, Birmingham is actually a thriving food city, one that you wouldn’t expect at first glance, but that easily stacks up to the likes of Austin, Portland (OR and ME), and New Orleans.

Fortunately for me, I had a chance to sit down with Shaun Chavis, one of two masterminds behind Food Blog South, who pointed me in so many delicious directions at the start of my journey in the Deep South.

Where oh where to begin?

While not entirely eating-related (but decidedly food-related), I took a small detour to the Southern Progress Corporation. For those of you who think that sounds like some group looking to advance the mission of the South, you’ll be delighted (as I was) to find that this is actually the umbrella company for Southern Living, Cooking Light and Coastal Living, among other successful media outlets. While I spent about 3 hours on their “campus” (as I call it, because it was very much like a wilderness preserve, a must-see if you’re in the city), the most exciting of this was spent in the test kitchens, which were magnificent and impressive. They’ve intentionally modeled them on home kitchens (not upscale test kitchens), so everything that comes out just right in their ovens will come out in yours as well.

The great folks behind the Cooking Light test kitchen

While we unfortunately didn’t have a chance to sample any of the food being put together in the test kitchens that day, it was for the best, as we left the campus and headed downtown to El Barrio for a Mexican-inspired lunch. The menu offers an outstanding array of options, including Portobello-stuffed tacos, tequila-infused mussels (fun fact: mussels seem to be surprisingly ubiquitous in this land-locked city), and my personal favorite, the chorizo meatloaf, which is indeed as decadent as it sounds. This hearty lunchtime favorite includes a mix of chorizo and bacon, piled on top of whipped potatoes and smothered in gravy. It’s a dish that’s quintessential Deep South cooking (and is worth the price of admission to get down there).

The restaurant itself also has an urban-rustic vibe, anchored by the sprawling mural on the far wall of the restaurant, which I could’ve enjoyed for hours:

While it may seem that all I did in Birmingham was surround myself with food, I can assuredly say that libations also played an impressive role in this weekend’s Alabama excursion. One bar/restaurant in particular that is a must-try while in the city is Little Savannah, which is slinging up drinks as inspired as any hip NYC establishment. The “beverage director” (as the bartender is fondly called) is a commanding woman by the name of Steva, whose demeanor at times floats between a welcoming conviviality and a focused determination as she whips up a drink order. Most notable is their selection of hand-crafted cocktails, and at the top of this list, I put their Spicy Peach Margarita (which I especially appreciated because it’s served in a tall glass rather than a margarita glass).

But, other luscious libations on order here include the Walker Percy (with bourbon, cucumber, honey-violet syrup, and soda water) and the Rose Tattoo (with gin, housemade grapefruit cello, muscadine shrub, and sweet vermouth). Additional appreciation points go to whomever is naming the drinks, as fun to read as they are to drink. The cocktails go down easily, just as much because of the flavor and balance as the low price for each.

It turns out that dinner was provided that evening by Jim N’ Nick’s Barbecue to all those involved with Food Blog South, so we didn’t have a chance to take the food offerings for a spin at Little Savannah. It was actually for the best, as we ended up at JNN’s, sampled a few bites of barbecue, but then were whisked off with a good friend to a real dinner at Frank Stitt’s Chez Fonfon, where upscale eats meet the bistro/brasserie. This no-reservations restaurant doesn’t mess around with its food service, the sights and smells pervading the space create a palpable electricity for the meal about to be enjoyed. The menu, which changes often based on availability of ingredients, features contemporary renditions of some classic dishes: Frisée aux lardons with a poached farm egg, chicken liver mousse, lamb shoulder with glazed turnips, and (my choice for the evening) the ever-popular moules frites. These are brought in from Prince Edward Island and have a bright, robust flavor when paired with the saffron curry sauce (I had to chuckle at the fact that I traveled almost as far as my mussels just to have a taste; does eating local count when you and your food are from the same neck of the woods?). What I enjoyed most about the whole experience was the fact that this really gives you a sense for what a well-known chef can do in a city with the right ingredients and tools. An impressive effort, and one that only helps to put Birmingham on the culinary map.

Saturday was spent almost entirely engaged with Food Blog South, an experience unto itself that is chronicled in a separate post. All I can say is that the lunch service from Shindigs Catering (they also have a food truck) was some of the best food I’ve had at a blogging conference.

So as to truly pack in as much as possible in Birmingham, our last stop of the trip was at Ollie Irene, named after the mother of the husband and wife team that own it.  This came highly recommended from a number of folks who are tied into the Birmingham food scene. After giving it a try, I’m not surprised to hear it. While busy on a Saturday night, they were able to seat us without reservations in about 10 minutes, though drinks and food didn’t start rolling in until a bit later (a point of consternation at the outset, which eventually ebbed as the cocktails arrived). As an aside to the above, this gastropub is supposedly known for its cocktails (libations such as the Bankwalker, made with bourbon, coffee-orange bitters, maple syrup and soda look great on paper), but I wasn’t seeing it that evening. The flavors were dull and muted in some cocktails, while in others, too bright to taste the alcohol, which in my mind should always anchor a good drink. It could just be that the bartender was overwhelmed with the weekend crowd, and I wouldn’t pass this place off because of that. The food is so good that it justifies the entire meal, and I’m sure on a subsequent visit, the cocktails will likely meet the standard the chef is setting as well.

The space itself has the warm, inviting feel of a country farmhouse and the food on offer matches that appeal. Plates such as the French onion soup and the goat cheese salad sing of a classic approach to comfort food, while the Thai basil shrimp salad is unlike anything you’d expect to find in Birmingham. I went with the flat-top chicken, but was tempted by the Ollie Burger, with blue cheese compote butter, caramelized onions and a house-made bun (there is a note on the bottom of the menu that it has to be served exactly as ordered, serious stuff). The flat-top chicken was the perfect meal to end the trip though, tender and moist, with a light braising sauce that was balanced with some classically prepared greens (these were also complemented with a side order of creamed spinach, which was actually the lightest preparation of the dish I’ve had, truly outstanding).

As I sat digesting my final meal in Birmingham, I couldn’t help but think how the all the food I enjoyed echoed a profound hospitality and gratitude, prepared by people who not only care about the food and drink they are serving, but about those that they are serving it to as well. It’s a huge piece of the South that I’ve come to love, and the main reason I’ll be back (and also because I have yet to conquer a can of Good People Brewery’s Snake Handler, a 10% ABV Imperial IPA that is enough to send any good northern boy into a spin after the first one).

Sweet home Alabama indeed.